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What Causes a Water Heater to Make a Popping Noise


Hot water tanks frequently have sediment build-up, particularly if you reside in a region where hard water is common. These mineral buildups settle inside the tank and result in a variety of issues. The silt in the hot water tank shifts against the sides and bottom of the tank as the hot water expands and heats, pushing through the sediment and producing a rumbling sound.


Similar to rumbling, popping is typically brought on by sediment and limescale build-up inside the tank. Steam bubbles that grow beneath the silt and explode when the water heats up are what provide the sound. Utilizing a descaling product is a quick fix to assist in the breakdown the limescale and minerals, but it may be better to flush and drain the tank to remove any built-up sediment.

Hissing, crackling, or sizzling

Electric water heaters typically make sizzling, hissing, and cracking noises. They are frequently attributable to sediment accumulation in the tank’s base, which may be prevented by cleansing and draining the water heater once a year.


Ticking sounds in and around the water tank can be brought on by variations in water pressure, efficiency-enhancing heat trap nipples, and slack pipe straps. The majority of these reasons, which is fantastic news, don’t actually pose problems that need to be fixed.

singing, screeching, or shouting

To clarify, screeching, screaming, and singing are warning signs. These noises are often made when a valve has a considerably reduced water flow.

Hammering or banging

That is to say, a popular word is water hammer. Water forced to cease flowing or changes direction results in pressure spike. Water hammer has the potential to break household pipes and even cause the water tank to expand and deform.           

                How To Fix It
Solution: It is time to drain and flush the tank.

Please carefully follow these directions or you risk damaging the water heater.

1) Switch the water heater off.

Electric water heaters: shut off the circuit breaker where the water heater is located.

For gas water heaters, set the gas switch to “pilot.”

2) Make a 90-degree turn on the cold-water supply lever. This will prevent the water heater from receiving additional water.

3) Connect the drain valve to a garden hose.
  1. Open the pressure relief valve and turn on a hot water faucet someplace in your house.

5) Place the other end of the hose in a location where you can safely drain hot water (such as a basement drain or outside). This will make it possible for the water to exit the hose.

  1. Deactivate the drain valve. Hot, soiled water should begin to emerge from the hose. (Careful! It’ll be warm.)

7) The “flushing” might begin after the water has completely drained. Before turning on the cold-water supply, close the pressure relief valve if you opened it. Repeatedly switch between the “open” and “close” positions on the cold-water supply lever. This ought to aid in clearing away any leftover silt from the tank’s bottom. When all you can see is clean water, you will have finished.

8) Close the drain valve and remove the hose from it.

9) Adjust the cold-water supply lever so that it is in line with the pipe leading to the cold-water inlet. Allow the water heater to refill for ten minutes. To remove any air from the hot water tank and pipes, turn on a hot water faucet. Turn off the hot water tap whenever you begin to receive clear water instead of a murky air-water mixture.

10) To begin heating the water, switch the water heater back on (or, for gas water heaters, turn the gas line back to “on” from the “pilot” setting).

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